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Butterbeer and Belarusian Gramatka

On December 30, 2024, Onlíner published an article about Stanislav Pridibaila's research into historical butterbeer and gramatka, a traditional warm beer-based drink associated with the drinking culture of the region.

The article explores parallels between Tudor-era English butterbeer, gramatka from the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, and the fictional drink featured in the Harry Potter books. It also discusses historical recipe reconstructions, public workshops, and tastings.

The publication includes commentary from historian Aleh Dziarnovich, PhD, who described the proposed historical connection between these drinks as a convincing interpretation.

OnlínerPublished
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Stanislav Pridibaila tasting historical gramatka. An artistic illustration featuring Henry VIII, Adam Mickiewicz, old recipes, and butterbeer.
Stanislav Pridibaila and the history of butterbeer and gramatka: from a 1594 recipe to Pan Tadeusz and Harry Potter. Original AI-generated illustration.

This summer, we told you about Stanislav Pridibaila, a beer history enthusiast from Gomel who has been researching Belarusian brewing traditions almost single-handedly. The roots of these traditions stretch far back into the Middle Ages, to the era of the Basilian monks. We even travelled with him to the shores of a lake to brew beer according to the oldest known recipe discovered in the territory of present-day Belarus.

Stanislav Pridibaila looking through a handheld optical refractometer on the shore of Lake Selyava during a historical Belarusian beer-brewing reconstruction.
Stanislav Pridibaila checking wort extract concentration with an optical refractometer during the historical reconstruction of “Інфляцкі бір” beer. Lake Selyava, Belarus, 2024. Photo: Onlíner.Onlíner — Максим Малиновский / архив героя

Today, Stanislav has come to us with another equally remarkable discovery: according to the researcher, he has managed to scientifically prove that the famous butterbeer from the Harry Potter universe has Belarusian roots. And these roots take us all the way back to the Tudor era and to gramatka, one of the favourite drinks of the nobility at that time. You can read the full research paper and discover the recipe for that very beer here.

“I think this is a really exciting story, especially around New Year, and a tremendous boost for the development of our drinking culture. It would be wonderful if visitors were treated not only to draniki (potato pancakes) but also to gramatka. I have already held two workshops and lectures in Gomel and Grodno, where I told this story and prepared the drink according to a recipe that so many people absolutely loved. And now tour guides in Grodno are serving this drink to tourists,” the author of the beer research paper himself tells Onlíner.

Indeed, it would be difficult to describe this research as anything other than a scholarly work. With references to J. K. Rowling's original text, the works of Adam Mickiewicz, and historical documents dating back almost 400 years, Stanislav has assembled a rather convincing body of evidence.

It is hardly surprising that the research has already attracted the attention of recognised scholars. It has even received a review from Aleh Dziarnovich, a Leading Research Fellow at the Institute of History of the National Academy of Sciences of Belarus and a Candidate of Historical Sciences.

Historian Aleh Dziarnovich standing among ancient stone columns.
Aleh Dziarnovich, Candidate of Historical Sciences and researcher at the Institute of History, National Academy of Sciences of Belarus. Photo: Onlíner.Onlíner (people.onliner.by); фотограф не установлен

Here is what the historian writes in his commentary:

“Stanislav Pridibaila has proposed his own interpretation of these ‘beer riddles’. And it must be said that the author's theory concerning German ‘beer soup’ as the origin of both Tudor-era ‘butterbeer’ and the ‘gramatka’ served at the Vilnius table of Sigismund the Old appears quite convincing. Thus, this tradition dates back at least to the 15th century.”

Gramatka in Adam Mickiewicz's poem Pan Tadeusz (1834), featuring the poet's portrait, historical portraits of nobility, and a quotation describing hot beer with sour cream, butter, and curd cheese.
Gramatka in Adam Mickiewicz's Pan Tadeusz (1834): a description of hot beer with sour cream, butter, and curd cheese. Slide from the author's presentation on the history of butterbeer.Авторский коллаж из презентации PBP.BY о сливочном пиве и граматке

ADDITIONAL MATERIAL

Full commentary by Aleh Dziarnovich:

We can now confidently say that brewing has a long history in Belarus. The common Slavic word for beer, pivo, itself derives from the verb pit’, meaning “to drink”. However, ancient beer was clearly very different from the beverages that we now group under the extremely broad term “beer”, encompassing a wide range of flavours. What all these drinks have in common are certain basic elements: barley, the fermentation process, and, most often, the use of hops. Brewing-related standards and resources were legally protected: the Statute of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania of 1588 prescribed a substantial fine for damaging hop plantations, known as khmelishcha.
Furthermore, beer-drinking customs in the 16th and 17th centuries were indeed different from the drinking culture of the 18th and 19th centuries. Already in the first half of the 18th century, even in noble households far from the capitals, coffee began to replace the beer-based polivka traditionally consumed at breakfast. From the middle of the century onwards, coffee accompanied by refreshments also began to be served at luncheon gatherings. Yet these changes in taste did not eliminate the various forms of beer-based polivka. And here is something that certainly catches the attention of an observant researcher: “beer-based polivka”? How was this drink different from “ordinary beer”?
Stanislav Pridibaila has proposed his own interpretation of these “beer riddles”. And it must be said that the author's theory concerning German “beer soup” as the origin of both Tudor-era “butterbeer” and the “gramatka” served at the Vilnius table of Sigismund the Old appears quite convincing. Thus, this tradition dates back at least to the 15th century.
Another striking feature when comparing Western European and Litvinian recipes is the custom, widespread in our lands, of adding more spices and seasonings to beer-based drinks. This may also have been influenced by Sarmatism, the ideology of the nobility in the 17th and 18th centuries. Orientalism fitted perfectly into the Sarmatian worldview. In this context, the fascination with Eastern spices seems entirely logical.
The ancient magic of Harry Potter only heightens our taste sensations. I cannot speak for anyone else, but after reading this material, I certainly felt the urge to taste some gramatka!
Aleh Dziarnovich, Candidate of Historical Sciences